the north a return must be made to
Arundel, and either the path through the park or the road to South
Stoke may be taken. The latter runs between park and river and soon
reaches the two villages of North and South Stoke, both charming little
hamlets without any communication by road, though a footpath unites the
two. The first village, South Stoke, has an Early English church with
sedilia and other details. North Stoke has a fine Norman door worthy of
inspection. Here a British canoe was discovered in the last century; it
may be seen in the Lewes Museum. Across the river, and only to be
approached by a detour past Amberley Station, is Houghton. From the
bridge over the Arun is a very beautiful retrospect of the valley
towards Arundel with the hills falling in graceful curves to the river.
The church is Early English of a severe type; here is a fifteenth
century brass but nothing more of much interest.

A mile from Houghton Bridge will bring us to Amberley. The village is
built on a low hill or cliff immediately above the "wild brooks" or
water meadows of the Arun, and is famous for the picturesque remains of
the palace of the Bishops of Chichester, which still edge the sandy
hill in front of the village. Amberley Castle, as the residence has
always been called, was built in the reign of Richard II, about 1379,
and then consisted of a crenellated building with square corner towers
and two round gate towers; the present house, which stands within the
walls, was erected in the early sixteenth century by Bishop Sherbourne.
This has probably been the site of an episcopal residence since before
the Conquest and is in as beautiful a situation as is to be found in
Sussex, though judging by a local saying quoted by Lower, it would not
appear to be as perfect in the winter. An Amberley man when asked from
where he comes then answers "Amberley, God help us," but in the
summer--"Amberley, where _would_ you live?" "Amerley" is immortalized by
Izaac Walton for its trout, and by Fuller, who speaks of them as "one
of the four good things of Sussex."

[Illustration: LITTLEHAMPTON HARBOUR.]

Amberley Church is a small Norman building with Early English
additions; note the brass to John Wantle (1424) and the beautifully
ornamented door in the south aisle. There is an hour-glass stand in the
pulpit. Notice also the ancient font and the remains of frescoes at the
east end of the nave.

The road now runs eastwards with the fine escarpme