n gradients, the train first running a mile or so one way,
then stopping, when the engines were shunted to the other end, when we
ran about a mile in the opposite direction, and so on, so that we
described a perfect zigzag. A tunnel through this range of hills is
being bored, and a colony of 150 Italian mechanics, together with their
wives, has been imported to do it. Boukhedou is already quite a large
place with numbers of substantial Russian houses built of wood, and many
more, as well as a station, in course of construction. Sentries armed
with rifle and revolver were stationed every here and there along the
line. A fair amount of rolling-stock. Saw several long-haired goats,
also some Chinese pedlars. Evidently a good deal of ground game in this
locality, judging from traces in the snow.

_2nd November._--We arrived at Harbin (or Kharbine) towards noon. I
could see tall factory chimneys for some time previously, and then we
crossed by a fine iron bridge over the Sungari River, whereon I saw
about a dozen river-steamers, of say 1,000 to 1,500 tons, laid up for
the winter, and a score or so of barges of perhaps 400 to 600 tons. A
large paddle steamer was towing a barge under the bridge against the
swift current as we passed over.

This large town, which has entirely sprung up since advent of the
railway, looked almost wholly Russian, there being a population of about
64,000 Russians and not so many Chinese. Russians here were even working
as labourers, drivers of droskies, etc. Many European houses and several
large brick-built factories in course of construction. The Russians are
here with the intention of staying, and are making good their hold as
quickly as possible.

The station is perhaps a mile from the river and of considerable size,
though still in a rough stage, for Harbin is the junction of the line to
Vladivostock and the line to Dalny and Port Arthur. Here was a great
deal of rolling-stock--scores of cars and many engines.

After leaving Harbin armed guards along the line were more numerous,
while every few miles were brick-built block-houses surrounded by
loop-holed walls.

The country looked fertile and well cultivated, and the Manchu and
Chinese inhabitants more prosperous. Rolling hills and a few trees.
Much warmer. No snow.

_3rd November._--Lovely day, bright and warm. No trace of snow.
At Tienline saw some rickshas, also good, brick European houses
being built. Chinese navvies working on the