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the ancient Arabic measures are inscribed. It was last remodelled in
1893. We visited old Cairo and the Coptic churches, six of which are
situated in the precincts of the ancient castle of Babylon. The Copts
are considered fine representatives of the old Egyptians, and they have
succeeded in preserving their language and liturgy through twelve
centuries of fierce oppression. The Fatimid period alone allowed them
some measure of toleration; their religious forms are similar to those
of the Greek church, but their discipline is more severe, their Lenten
fast covering a period of fifty-five days, with abstinence from sunrise
to sunset.

The Church of St. George will illustrate the peculiar arrangement of
their religious edifices. Following the example of the older Egyptian
Byzantine churches, the nave and tribune are uncovered and the side
aisles have galleries. The nave has three divisions: first, a vestibule;
second, a section set apart for women; and third, another section for
men. There are the usual choir, sanctuary, and side chapels, and the
division between the choir and the sanctuary is ornamented with carvings
in wood and ivory. The church also contains Byzantine carving and
mosaics, and is characterized by the usual richness in decoration. A
flight of twelve steps descends into the crypt, a small vaulted chapel
with marble columns situated under the choir. At the end of the nave is
an altar, around which has sprung up the tradition that the Virgin and
Child there rested during a month's stay, after the flight to Egypt. The
Church of St. Sergius is similar in construction, as are others of the
group, besides hundreds more scattered through Egypt. The dust of ages
clung to our skirts as we left the desolate scene, and there was within
us the consciousness that, for old Cairo, there could be no
resurrection.

One of the places that might consume days in the inspection is the
Museum of Egyptian Antiquities, which it is impossible to describe in a
limited space. But to the student of Egyptology and to the tourist it is
alike important, because, in its monuments of stone and bronze, it
presents visible proofs of a wonderful past, while the sarcophagi,
mummies, and other remains taken from the tombs, reveal the life and
habits of the early Egyptians.

With only two mornings for an inspection, we devoted one to a general
view of the museum, and the other to the fine collection of our
fellow-traveller, Mr. Theodore