sengers who had come in the diligence from Naples,
began to take their places in the coach for Rome; while at the same time
the other company got into the Naples coach, which was now going to
return. The conductor came for his _buono mano_, the new horses were
harnessed in, the postilions leaped into the saddles, and thus both
parties set out upon their night ride. It was not far from nine o'clock.

[Illustration: THE PONTINE MARSHES.]

"And now," said Mr. George, "before a great while we shall come upon the
Pontine Marshes."

The Pontine Marshes form an immense tract of low and level land, which
have been known and celebrated in history for nearly two thousand years.
Though called marshes, they are so far drained by ancient canals that
the land is firm enough for grass to grow upon it, and for flocks of
sheep and herds of cattle to feed; but yet it is so low and so
unhealthy, that it is utterly uninhabitable by man. The extent of these
marshes is immense. The road traverses them in a direct line, and on a
perfect level, for twenty-five or thirty miles, without passing a single
habitation, except the post houses, and in the middle a solitary inn.

And yet there is nothing desolate or dreary in the aspect of the Pontine
Marshes. On the contrary the view on every side, in passing across them,
is extremely beautiful. The road is wide, and smooth, and level, and is
bordered on each side with a double row of very ancient and venerable
trees, which give to it, for the whole distance, the character of a
magnificent avenue. Think of a broad and handsome avenue, running
straight as an arrow for twenty-five miles!

Beyond the trees, on one side, there is a wide canal. This canal runs
parallel to the road, and you often meet boats coming or going upon it.
Beyond the canal, and beyond the trees on the other side, there extends,
as far as the eye can reach, one vast expanse of living green, as smooth
and beautiful as can be imagined. This immense tract of meadow is
divided here and there by hedges or palings, and now and then a pretty
grove appears to vary the scene. Immense flocks of sheep, and herds of
horses and cattle, are seen feeding every where, and sometimes herdsmen,
on horseback galloping to and fro, attending to their charge.

Mr. George and Rollo had had a fine opportunity to see the scenery of
the Pontine Marshes when they came to Naples, for then they crossed them
by day light. Now, however, it was night, and ther