with apothecaries' shops, and I met a great many
physical faces; so that if the air is not good, I conclude the physic
is, and therefore laid out two _sols_ for a pennyworth of ointment of
_marsh-mallows_ which alleviated a little the extreme misery we all were
in, during our stay at this celebrated city. If, however, it still has
a reputation for the cure of a _particular disorder_, perhaps that may
arise from the impurity of the air,--and that the air which is so prone
to engender verdigris, may wage war with other subtile poisons; yet, as
I found some of my countrymen there, who had taken a longer trial of the
air, and more of the physic, than I had occasion for, who neither
admired one, nor found benefit from the other, I will not recommend
_Montpellier_ as having any peculiar excellencies within its walls, but
good wine, and some good actors. It is a dear town, even to the natives,
and a very imposing one to strangers; and therefore I shall soon leave
it, and proceed southward.

Perhaps you will expect me to say something of the _Sweets_ which this
town is so famed for: there are indeed some sweet shops of that sort;
and they are _bien places_. At these shops they have ladies' silk
pockets, sachels for their shifts, letter cases, and a multitude of
things of that kind, quilted and _larded_ with something, which does
indeed give them a most pleasing and lasting perfume. At these shops
too, beside excellent lavender water, essence of bergamot, &c. they sell
_eau de jasmin de pourri, de cedre, de girofle, sans pareille, de mille
fleurs, de zephir, de oiellet, de sultan_ and a hundred other sorts; but
the _essence of bergamot_ is above all, as a single drop is sufficient
to perfume a handkerchief; and so it ought to be, for it is very dear.

LETTER XIII.

CETTE.

I was very impatient till I had drove my horse from the British to the
Mediterranean coast, and looked upon a sea from _that land_ which I had
often, with longing eyes, viewed _from the sea_, in the year 1745, when
I was on board the Russel, with Admiral Medley. I have now compleatly
crossed this mighty kingdom and great continent, and it was for that
reason I visited _Cette_. This pretty little sea-port, though it is out
of my way to _Barcelona_, yet it proves to be in _the way_ for my poor
horse; as I found here a Spanish bark, upon which I put part of my
baggage. I was obliged to have it, however, opened and examined at the
Custom-house; and as