to
speak; I quailed inwardly, dreading he was going to object to the smell
of smoke. Oh, joyous sight! a cigar appeared between his fingers, and
the re-assuring words came forth--"A light, sir, if you please." I never
gave one more readily in my life. Gradually, passenger after passenger
produced cigars; the aroma filled the coach, and the fragrance of the
weed triumphed over the foetor of the polecat. Six insides out of nine
hard at it, and four of them with knock-me-down Virginia tobacco, the
single human odour could not contend against such powerful odds; as well
might a musquito sneeze against thunder. I always loved a cigar; but
here I learnt its true value in a desperate emergency.

On we went, puffing, pumping, and jolting, till at last we came to a
stand on the banks of a river. As there was a reasonable probability of
the mail shooting into the stream on its descent, we were told to get
out, on doing which we found ourselves pleasantly situated about a foot
deep in mud; the mail got down safe into an open ferry-boat with two
oars, and space for passengers before the horses or behind the coach.
The ferry was but for a few minutes, and we then had to ascend another
bank of mud, at the top of which we retook our seats in the mail,
bringing with us in the aggregate, about a hundredweight of fine clay
soil, with which additional cargo we continued our journey. One o'clock
brought us to Elizabeth Town, and dinner; the latter was very primitive,
tough, and greasy.

Once more we entered our cells, and continued our route, the bad road
getting worse and worse, rarely allowing us to go out of a walk. Two of
our fellow-passengers managed to make themselves as offensive as
possible. They seemed to be travelling bagmen of the lowest class.
Conversation they had none, but by way of appearing witty, they kept
repeating over and over again some four or five stories, laughing at one
another's tales, which were either blasphemous or beastly--so much so,
that I would most willingly have compounded for two more human polecats
in lieu of them. I must say, that although all classes mix together in
public conveyances, this was the first time I had ever found people
conduct themselves in so disgusting a manner. We soon came to another
river, and getting out, enjoyed a second mud walk, bringing in with us
as before a rich cargo of clay soil; and after a continuous and
increasing jolting, which threatened momentary and universal
disl