cathedrals and churches of the Rhine form a
wonderful collection of masterpieces of architectural art with which
most well-informed folk in the world to-day should have a desire for
acquaintanceship.

These often austere edifices, when seen near by, may not appeal to the
popular fancy as do those of France and England, and they may not even
have the power to so appeal; but, such as they are, they are quite as
worthy of serious consideration and ardent admiration as any structures
of their kind in existence, and they have, in addition, an environment
which should make a journey among them, along the banks of the Rhine
from its source to the sea, one of the most enjoyable experiences of
life.

The Rhine loses none of its charms by intimate acquaintance; its history
and legends stand out with even more prominence; and the quaint
architectural forms of its cities are at least characteristically
convincing.

Remains of every period may be found by the antiquary, from the time
when the Roman eagle was triumphant throughout the dominion of the
Franks to feudal and warlike times nearer our own day.

In addition, there are ever to be found evidences of the frugality and
thrift of the Germans which preserve the best traditions of other days.

The love of the Rhineland in the breast of the Teuton is an
indescribable sentiment; a confusion of the higher and lower emotions.
It is characteristic of the national genius. We have been told, and
rightly: "You cannot paint the Rhine, you cannot even describe it, for
picture or poem would leave out half of the whole delicious confusion.
The Rhine, however, can be set to music," and that apparently is just
what has been done.

Everywhere one hears the music of the fatherland. Whether it is the
songs and madrigals of the Church, or of the German bands in the
Volksgarten, it is always the same, a light, irrepressible emotion which
does much toward elucidating the complex German character.

Nowhere more than at Cologne is this contrast apparent. It is the most
delightful of all Rhine cities. Usually tourists go there, or are sent
there--which is about what it amounts to in most cases--in order to
begin their "Rhine tour."

Before they start up-stream, they stroll about the city, pop in and out
of its glorious cathedral, and perhaps one or another of its
magnificent churches,--if they happen to be on their line of march to or
from some widely separated points,--make the usual purchas