es and artillery, crowding the
piazzas of churches turned into barracks. All these things haunt my
memory, but I could only at best thinly sketch them in meagre black
and white. Verona is an almost purely Gothic city in her architecture,
and her churches are more worthy to be seen than any others in North
Italy, outside of Venice. San Zenone, with the quaint bronzes on its
doors representing in the rudeness of the first period of art the
incidents of the Old Testament and the miracles of the saints--with
the allegorical sculptures surrounding the interior and exterior of
the portico, and illustrating, among other things, the creation of
Eve with absolute literalness--with its beautiful and solemn crypt
in which the dust of the titular saint lies entombed--with its minute
windows, and its vast columns sustaining the roof upon capitals of
every bizarre and fantastic device--is doubtless most abundant in that
Gothic spirit, now grotesque and now earnest, which somewhere appears
in all the churches of Verona; which has carven upon the facade of
the Duomo the statues of Orlando and Olliviero, heroes of romance, and
near them has placed the scandalous figure of a pig in a monk's robe
and cowl, with a breviary in his paw; which has reared the exquisite
monument of Guglielmo da Castelbarco before the church of St.
Anastasia, and has produced the tombs of the Scaligeri before the
chapel of Santa Maria Antica.

I have already pledged myself not to attempt any description of these
tombs, and shall not fall now. But I bought in the. English tongue, as
written at Verona, some "Notices," kept for sale by the sacristan,
"of the Ancient Churg of Our Lady, and of the Tombs of the most
illustrious Family Della-Scala," and from these I think it no
dereliction to quote _verbatim_. First is the tomb of San Francesco,
who was "surnamed the Great by reason of his valor." "With him the
Great Alighieri and other exiles took refuge. We see his figure
extended upon a bed, and above his statue on horsebac with the vizor
down, and his crest falling behind his shoulders, his horse covered
with mail. The columns and capitals are wonderful." "Within the
Cemetery to the right leaning against the walls of the church is the
tomb of John Scaliger." "In the side of this tomb near the wall of
Sacristy, you see the urn that encloses the ashes of Martin I.," "who
was traitorously killed on the 17th of October 1277 by Scaramello of
the Scaramelli, who wished