ost of the inhabitants,
indeed, are bi-lingual, and very many tri-lingual, without counting
French, which is understood and spoken from infancy. Italian, German,
and Greek are written, but the Slavonic little, this having remained
in the condition of a vulgar tongue. But it would be idle to
distinguish the population according to language, for the son adopts a
language different from the father's, and now prefers one language and
now another; the women incline to the Italian; but those of the upper
class prefer now German, now French, now English, as, from one decade
to another, affairs, fashions, and fancies change. This in the salons;
in the squares and streets, the Venetian dialect is heard."
And with the introduction of the Venetian dialect, Venetian discontent
seems also to have crept in, and I once heard a Triestine declaim
against the Imperial government quite in the manner of Venice. It
struck me that this desire for union with Italy, which he declared
prevalent in Trieste, must be of very recent growth, since even so
late as 1848, Trieste had refused to join Venice in the expulsion of
the Austrians. Indeed, the Triestines have fought the Venetians from
the first; they stole the Brides of Venice in one of their piratical
cruises in the lagoons; gave aid and comfort to those enemies of
Venice, the Visconti, the Carraras, and the Genoese; revolted from St.
Mark whenever subjected to his banner, and finally, rather than remain
under his sway, gave themselves five centuries ago to Austria.
The objects of interest in Trieste are not many. There are remains of
an attributive temple of Jupiter under the Duomo, and there is near
at hand the Museum of Classical Antiquities founded in honor of
Winckelmann, murdered at Trieste by that ill-advised Pistojese,
Ancangeli, who had seen the medals bestowed on the antiquary by Maria
Theresa and believed him rich. There is also a scientific museum
founded by the Archduke Maximilian, and, above all, there is the
beautiful residence of that ill-starred prince,--the Miramare, where
the half-crazed Empress of the Mexicans vainly waits her husband's
return from the experiment of paternal government in the New World. It
would be hard to tell how Art has charmed rock and wave at Miramare,
until the spur of those rugged Triestine hills, jutting into the sea,
has been made the seat of ease and luxury, but the visitor is aware of
the magic as soon as he passes the gate of the palace grou
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