t of their dark
and impenetrable foliage, everywhere relieved the eye from the glare of
the sun's rays, and, contrasted with the lively verdure of the little
hills and plains, produced the most pleasing effect. Afterwards, however,
there was a decided change; the banks, which before consisted of dark
earth, clay, or sand, were now composed of black rugged rocks; large
sand-banks and islands were scattered in the river, which diverted it into
a variety of little channels, and effectually destroyed its appearance.

"We had heard so unfavourable an account of the state of the river at one
particular place which we should have to pass, that our people were
compelled to disembark and walk along the banks a considerable way till we
had passed it, when we took them in again. We found the description to be
in no wise exaggerated; it presented a most forbidding appearance, and
yields only to the state of the Niger near Boossa in difficulty and danger.
On our arrival at this formidable place, we discovered a range of black
rocks running directly across the stream, and the water, finding only one
narrow passage, rushed through it with great impetuosity, over-turning and
carrying away everything in its course. Our boatmen, with the assistance
of a number of the natives, who planted themselves on the rocks on each
side of the only channel, and in the stream at the stern of the canoe,
lifted it by main force into smoother and safer water. The last difficulty
with respect to rocks and sand-banks was now overcome, and in a very
little time we came to the termination of all the islands, after which, it
is said, there is not a single dangerous place up the Niger. The river
here presented its noblest appearance; not a single rock nor sand-bank was
anywhere perceptible; its borders resumed their beauty, and a strong,
refreshing breeze, which had blown during the whole of the morning, now
gave it the motion of a slightly-agitated sea. In the course of the
morning we passed two lovely little islands, clothed in verdure, which at
a short distance looked as charming as the fabled gardens of Hesperia;
indeed no spot on earth can excel them in beauty of appearance. These
islands are inhabited by a few individuals."

Upon leaving Yaoorie, a venerable Arab chief pretended great regard for
the travellers, though he used them deceitfully; they had, however,
"enjoyed an innocent kind of revenge, in administering to him a powerful
dose of medicine, wh