another tower there was an
immense bell, at the baptism of which--for church bells are duly
consecrated in Catholic countries--the Emperor Charles V. stood as
godfather. It requires sixteen men to ring it; but its peals rouse the
Antwerpers only on great occasions, such as a visit of the king.
Dr. Winstock and Paul waited among the chimes till they had played the
hourly tune, and then continued their progress to the heights above.
The custodian of the steeple said there were six hundred and sixteen
steps from the bottom to the top, and a person does not care to make the
journey more than once in his lifetime. The winding stairs passed close
to the Gothic openings of the tower, and they had an opportunity closely
to observe the delicate workmanship of the structure, which Charles V.
said should be kept in a glass case, and Napoleon compared to Mechlin
lace.
At last, out of breath, they reached the highest point of the spire, and
looked far down upon the lofty roof of the church. The buildings of the
city looked like card houses, and a company of Belgian soldiers,
marching in the streets, appeared like the pygmies who inhabited them.
In the distance could be seen the towers of Ghent, Brussels, Mechlin,
and Flushing, the wandering Scheldt, and the low country for a vast
distance. The magnificent view, and the information it afforded, amply
repaid them for the toil of ascending, and Paul made the Cathedral the
subject of an entire letter to Miss Grace Arbuckle.
It was easier to go down than to come up, and when they had passed out
into the Place Verte, the doctor declared that he must lunch before he
walked any farther. The Hotel de l'Europe faced the Park, and Paul was
desirous of seeing the interior of it. They entered through an archway,
there being no doors on the street. There was a spacious area, or
court-yard, through which alone the house could be reached. In other
respects the establishment was similar to those in the United States.
On the continent, as in England, none but working people take breakfast
much before nine o'clock, and the hour varies from this time till noon.
Of late years the practice in American hotels corresponds with that of
European ones. In the dining-room of the Hotel de l'Europe there are
many small tables, and one or two long ones, the latter being used at
table d'hote, which is served at five o'clock. A hotel bill is added, to
give the reader an idea of the prices:--
"HOTEL DE
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