osemites; that is, they are pauses in their rivers' headlong rush, once
lakes, dug by rushing waters, squared and polished by succeeding
glaciers, chiselled and ornamented by the frosts and rains which
preceded and followed the glaciers. Muir is right, for all these are
Yosemites; but he is wrong, for there is only one Yosemite.

It is not the giant monoliths that establish the incomparable Valley's
world supremacy; Hetch Hetchy, Tehipite, Kings, and others have their
giants, too. It is not its towering, perpendicular, serrated walls; the
Sierra has elsewhere, too, an overwhelming exhibit of titanic granite
carvings. It is not its waterfalls, though these are the highest, by
far, in the world, nor its broad, peaceful bottoms, nor its dramatic
vistas, nor the cavernous depths of its tortuous tributary canyons. Its
secret is selection and combination. Like all supremacy, Yosemite's lies
in the inspired proportioning of carefully chosen elements. Herein is
its real wonder, for the more carefully one analyzes the beauty of the
Yosemite Valley, the more difficult it is to conceive its ensemble the
chance of Nature's functioning rather than the master product of supreme
artistry.

Entrance to the Yosemite by train is from the west, by automobile from
east and west both. From whatever direction, the Valley is the first
objective, for the hotels are there. It is the Valley, then, which we
must see first. Nature's artistic contrivance is apparent even in the
entrance. The train-ride from the main line at Merced is a constant
up-valley progress, from a hot, treeless plain to the heart of the
great, cool forest. Expectation keeps pace. Changing to automobile at El
Portal, one quickly enters the park. A few miles of forest and
behold--the Gates of the Valley. El Capitan, huge, glistening, rises
upon the left, 3,000 feet above the valley floor. At first sight its
bulk almost appalls. Opposite upon the right Cathedral Rocks support the
Bridal Veil Fall, shimmering, filmy, a fairy thing. Between them, in the
distance, lies the unknown.

Progress up the valley makes constantly for climax. Seen presently
broadside on, El Capitan bulks double, at least. Opposite, the valley
bellies. Cathedral Rocks and the mediaeval towers known as Cathedral
Spires, are enclosed in a bay, which culminates in the impressive needle
known as Sentinel Rock--all richly Gothic. Meantime the broadened
valley, another strong contrast in perfect key, delightful