sight of the seeming
masts, which I gradually discovered to be tall cocoa-nut palms or
pandanus trees. On approaching nearer, the whole white beach was
distinctly seen; and above it a narrow belt of land of a light clay
colour, surrounding a perfectly smooth lagoon of a beautiful blue tint;
while against the outer belt the surf was breaking with terrific force.
The highest part of the land appeared to be about ten or twelve feet
above the level of the sea; and we calculated that the belt between the
sea and the lagoon was about seven hundred feet wide, the soil being
composed of coral debris and vegetable matter. Besides the palm-trees,
there were a few shrubs not more than fourteen or fifteen feet in
height. The whole island was about eight miles long, and from one and a
half to two miles wide.

We sounded as we approached, but could obtain no bottom; and it was not
till we got quite close that the lead gave us ninety fathoms, and
farther on seventy, thus proving that the land was the top of a
submerged mountain. Such, indeed, are all the islands of this group.
Once upon a time in the world's history, a mountainous region existed on
the spot over which we were sailing, which gradually sank till the ocean
flowed over all the highest portions. The coral insects finding it a
convenient situation on which to build, the temperature of the water
suiting their constitution, commenced operations, and formed an
encircling reef round the shore. These creatures can only live at a
certain depth beneath the surface; thus, as the land continued to sink,
the first builders died, while others continued to work above their
habitations. Still the land sank, and the coral insects worked on,
building higher and higher till the summit of the mountain was not only
covered, but was many fathoms deep below the surface. This, however,
did not prevent the persevering creatures from continuing their
operations; till at length a time came when the subsidence of the land
ceased. The breakers then washed up portions of the coral on to the
summit of the reef, which by degrees crumbled away from the action of
the atmosphere. Sea-birds made it their home, and deposited the seeds
of various plants, while the ocean washed up other seeds still
containing germinating powers. Thus vegetation commenced; and the trees
and shrubs decaying, more vegetable mould was formed to support the
existence of a further succession of trees and shrubs.

I giv