not another sound
was heard from any direction.

"On, on, Senores!" were the only words we could hear. The snow had
ceased; but dark clouds seemed gathering around us, when, without
warning, a flash of forked lightning darted across our path, ploughing
up the ground before us, and followed by a peal of thunder which seemed
to rend the mountain tops. Flash succeeded flash in every direction,
the very atmosphere quivering with the uninterrupted peals repeated a
thousand-fold by the mountain echoes; while cataracts of fire appeared
to be rushing down the rocks on either side. Our trembling animals
refused to move; the Spaniards crossed themselves, and shrieking, as
they slid off the backs of the animals they rode, they called on their
saints for protection.

We dismounted and endeavoured to lead our horses under an overhanging
rock. At last we succeeded in obtaining some shelter; and there we
stood, every instant expecting to be struck by the electric fluid, which
rushed zigzagging before us. Feelings such I had never before
experienced came over me. I was at the same time inspired rather with
awe than with terror. It was as if the heavens were pouring out their
full wrath on man--as if the foundations of the world were about to be
uprooted, and the mighty mountains hurled over on the plains below.

Rocks and earth came hurtling down from the lofty peaks above us; crash
succeeded crash, and flashes of the most intensely vivid lightning
dashed before us without intermission, till the air itself seemed on
fire, and the faculties of sight and hearing both failed from
over-exhaustion of their energies. It appeared as if the dreadful
strife of the elements would never end; but as we were despairing of
reaching a resting-place before night should set in, the thunder rolled
away, the lightning ceased, and our party emerging from the caves and
crevices where they had taken shelter, we found that providentially all
had escaped injury. We mounted once more. As we proceeded, the rays of
the setting sun came streaming along a beautiful valley which opened on
our right. Descending rapidly, in little more than an hour we found
ourselves before a _tambo_. It was wretched enough in appearance, and
neither food nor beds did it afford. As, however, we had with us a
supply of provisions, and our cloaks and saddle-cloths spread on the
floor, with our saddles for pillows, served us for couches, we were not
worse off than we fre