but only in like manner to try our
patience and our nerves by stopping at a worse spot than before. After
resting a few minutes, the leading mule, which kept the others back,
appeared to gain strength, and his stoppages each time being of shorter
duration, he at length began to climb up the steep ascent before him,
the rest readily following.

The cold, at this great height we had now attained, was excessive to our
feelings, accustomed to the warmth of the lower country. Great,
however, as was the elevation, the peaks which rose above us on every
side appeared not to have lessened in the least in height. Snow of
brilliant whiteness was around us, some of which in the more lofty spots
had perhaps not melted since the days of the flood. Mists were floating
about, and below our feet was collected a dense mass, which obscured the
view beyond. A few flakes of snow began to fall, which every instant
increased in number.

"Forward, forward, Senores!" shouted our chief peon, who acted as guide.
"If a Cordillera storm catches us before we get under shelter, the days
of some of us may be numbered."

We did not neglect the warning. The animals even seemed to perceive the
necessity of pushing on; and away we all went, tumbling, sliding, and
leaping over the rough track which led down the mountain. The snow
increased in density, so that we could scarcely see the person
immediately preceding us; and the chilling wind blew stronger and
stronger from off the icy peaks above. Not a moment was to be lost--the
guides shouted, "On, on, on!" and we whipped and spurred, and urged on
our weary beasts by word and bridle. Still the ground was far too rough
to enable us to get them into a trot, far less to gallop; and besides, a
tumble would in many places have proved fatal both to horse and rider.
The descent was very rapid, for we were scarcely ever on a level.

"I'll will it fare with any unfortunate fellow in the rear who falls,"
said my father. "Remain close to me, David; I am afraid of your horse
stumbling."

"No fear," I answered, "I keep a tight rein on him, and he knows well
that he must not be careless."

There was little time to contemplate the scene as we rode along, but
still I could not help being struck by the solemn stillness, and the
wildness of the desolation around. The voices of the men, as they
shouted out, appeared strange and unnatural from their very
distinctness, as did the tramp of the animals; while