he spot, much to the amusement of my men, who
immediately shook their heads, laughingly, and said, "Ewa, Allah! are
these men, then, Mussulmans? Savages in our country don't much like a
crocodile."

After crossing two nullahs, we reached Apuddo, and at once, I went to
see the tree said to have been cut by an Englishman some time before.
There, sure enough, was a mark, something like the letters M. I., on its
bark, but not distinct enough to be ascertained, because the bark had
healed up. In describing the individual who had done this, the Turks
said he was exactly like myself, for he had a long beard, and a voice
even much resembling mine. He came thus far with Mahamed from Gondokoro
two years ago, and then returned, because he was alarmed at the accounts
the people gave of the countries to the southward, and he did not like
the prospect of having to remain a whole rainy season with Mahamed at
Faloro. He knew we were endeavouring to come this way, and directed
Mahamed to point out his name if we did so.

We took up our quarters in the village as usual, but the Turks remained
outside, and carried off all the tops of the villagers' huts to make a
camp for themselves. I rebuked them for doing so, but was mildly told
they had no huts of their own. They carried no pots either for cooking
their dinners, and therefore took from the villagers all that they
wanted. It was a fixed custom now, they told us, and there was no use in
our trying to struggle against it. If the natives were wise, they would
make enough to sell; but as they would not, they must put up with their
lot; for the "government" cannot be baulked of its ivory. Truly there
seemed to be nothing but misery here; food was so scarce the villagers
sought for wild berries and fruits; whilst the Turks helped themselves
out of their half-filled bins--a small reserve store to last up to the
far-distant harvest. Then, to make matters worse, all the village chiefs
were at war with one another.

At night a party of warriors walked round our village, but feared to
attack it because we were inside. Next morning the villagers turned out
and killed two of the enemy; but the rest, whilst retreating, sang out
that they would not attempt to fight until "the guns" were gone--after
that, the villagers had better look out for themselves. I now proposed
going on if the Apina, or chief of the village, would give me a guide;
but he feared to do so lest I should come to grief, and Maham