ct us into the
Magdalena. Lofty trees grew on both sides of the channel, among which
we saw numerous large green parrots and several kinds of monkeys, the
howling species being the most numerous. There were also some large
birds which stood looking at us, and which the doctor called "vultures
of the lake." They had long, red, and very strong legs, with their
backs and breasts black and grey, and curved spurs, sharp at the point,
and about an inch in length, on the first joint of each wing.

As we had seen nothing of our supposed enemies, the Indians, the crew
declared that they were too hungry to proceed farther without
breakfasting; and a tolerably open space between the trees affording us
room to light a fire, we landed, and having cleared the ground, soon had
our pots boiling. Our crew put all their food, consisting of rice,
plantain, and salt beef, into one large pot, and boiled them together.
The mess was then emptied out into wooden basins, from which they fed
themselves with their fingers, long cakes of sugar serving as dessert.

By the doctor's advice, we imitated their example in one respect,--by
boiling fowls, ham, vegetables, and flour together, which, when well
seasoned, made an excellent dish; only, we made use of spoons and knives
and forks to eat it.

After the meal was finished the men lay on the ground to rest, while the
doctor produced his huge meerschaum and commenced smoking, surrounding
his visage with such dense clouds that not a mosquito ventured to
approach him, while my uncle and I had to keep our handkerchiefs moving
rapidly to drive off the detestable little insects. We were thus
enjoying ourselves, if enjoyment it could be called, when, looking along
the channel in the direction we had come, I caught sight of the bow of a
canoe just rounding a point.

"On board, on board!" shouted the padrone, or captain; and the men,
jumping up, tumbled the cooking things, pots and pans, into the boat--
Tim following with our breakfast set, which he had just before packed
up.

On our taking our seats, the crew shoved off and began to paddle at a
rapid rate up the stream. The canoe we had seen had now come full into
view, and at first appeared to be gaining on us. This made our padrone
excite his men to fresh exertions. Should our pursuer be an enemy, and
overtake us, they would as certainly be put to death as we should,
supposing that we were unable effectually to defend ourselves. We got
our