to see the great open
spaces increasing and the trees yielding slowly but surely to the dwarf
bushes that are the most significant feature of the southern country,
outside the woodland and oases. I thought of the seaport town we were so
soon to see--a place where the civilisation we had dispensed with happily
enough for some weeks past would be forced into evidence once more, where
the wild countrymen among whom we had lived at our ease would be seen only
on market days, and the native Moors would have assimilated just enough of
the European life and thought to make them uninteresting, somewhat
vicious, and wholly ill-content.

The forest was left behind, the land grew bare, and from a hill-top I saw
the Atlantic some five or six miles away, a desert of sand stretching
between. We were soon on these sands--light, shifting, and intensely
hot--a Sahara in miniature save for the presence of the fragrant broom in
brief patches here and there. It was difficult riding, and reduced the
pace of the pack-mules to something under three miles an hour. As we
ploughed across the sand I saw Suera itself, the Picture City of Sidi
M'godol, a saint of more than ordinary repute, who gave the city the name
by which it is known to Europe. Suera or Mogador is built on a little
tongue of land, and threatens sea and sandhills with imposing
fortifications that are quite worthless from a soldier's point of view.
Though the sight of a town brought regretful recollection that the time of
journeying was over, Mogador, it must be confessed, did much to atone for
the inevitable. It looked like a mirage city that the sand and sun had
combined to call into brief existence--Moorish from end to end, dazzling
white in the strong sun of early summer, and offering some suggestion of
social life in the flags that were fluttering from the roof-tops of
Consuls' houses. A prosperous city, one would have thought, the emporium
for the desert trade with Europe, and indeed it was all this for many
years. Now it has fallen from its high commercial estate; French
enterprise has cut into and diverted the caravan routes, seeking to turn
all the desert traffic to Dakkar, the new Bizerta in Senegal, or to the
Algerian coast.

Salam and M'Barak praised Sidi M'godol, whose zowia lay plainly to be seen
below the Marrakesh gate; the Susi muleteers, the boy, and the slave
renewed their Shilha songs, thinking doubtless of the store of dollars
awaiting them; but I could not