, for assistance
rendered, to the Mexican Central Railroad, the Mexican Railway, the
Mexican National Railroad, the Tehuantepec Railroad, the Mexican
Southern Railroad, and the Interoceanic Railroad; also to the Ward
Line of steamers. Among individuals, it is no unfair discrimination to
express especial thanks to Mr. A.A. Robinson and Mr. A.L. Van Antwerp.
President Diaz has ever shown a friendly interest in my plans of work
and the results obtained. Senor Manuel Fernandez Leal, Minister of the
Department of Fomento, more than any other official, lent us every aid
and assistance in his power; his successor, Senor Leandro Fernandez,
continued the kindness shown by Minister Leal. And to all the governors
of the states and to the _jefes_ of the districts we are under many
obligations, and express to each and all our appreciation of their
kind assistance. Those personal friends who have been helpful in this
specific work in Indian Mexico are mentioned in the appropriate places
in the text. To those companions and assistants who accompanied us upon
the journeys a large part of the results of this work are due.

CHICAGO, January, 1908.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER Page

I. PRIESTLY ARCHAEOLOGY 1

II. WE START FOR GUATEMALA 13

III. THE LAND OF THE MIXES 22

IV. THROUGH CHIAPAS 39

V. AT HUIXQUILUCAN 56

VI. LAKE PATZCUARO 68

VII. TO URUAPAN BEFORE THE RAILROAD 76

VIII. TLAXCALA 85

IX. ZAMORA AND THE ONCE PUEBLOS 95

X. THE BOY WITH THE SMILE 108

XI. IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 112

XII. THE MIXES REVISITED 142

XIII. ABOUT TEHUANTEPEC 161

XIV. ON THE MAIN HIGH-ROAD 173

XV. CUICATLAN 181

XVI. IN TLAXCALAN TOWNS 188

XVII. IN THE CHINANTLA 198

XVIII. TO COIXTLAHUACA 216

XIX. HUAUHTLA AND THE MAZATECS 228

XX. TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 239

XXI. IN THE HUAXTECA 274

XXII. IN MAYA LAND 293

XXIII. OX-CART EXPERIENCES 328

XXIV. AT TUXTLA GUTIERREZ 351

XXV. TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS 360

XXVI. CHOLS