arge caskets, some of them alabaster, on whose lids
recline male figures draped and garlanded as for a feast: the faces
differ so much in feature and expression that one can hardly doubt
their being likenesses: the figures, if erect, would be nearly two
feet in height. The sides of these little sarcophagi are covered
with _bassi-rilievi_, many of them finely executed: the subjects are
combats and that favorite theme the boar-hunt of Kalydon; there was
one which represented the sacrifice of a child. The Medusa's head,
as it is thought to be, recurs constantly, treated with extraordinary
power: we were divided among ourselves whether it was Medusa or an
Erinnys with winged head. The sphinx appears several times: there
are four on the corners of an alabaster urn in the shape of a
temple, exquisite in form and features, and exceedingly delicate in
workmanship. Bulls' heads, with garlands drooping between them, a
well-known ornament of antique altars, are among the decorations. But
far the most beautiful objects were the little hanging figures, which
seemed to have been lamps of a green bronze color, though we were
assured that they are _terra-cotta_: they are male figures of
exquisite grace and beauty, with a lightness and airiness commonly
given to Mercury; but these had large angel pinions on the shoulders,
and none on the head or feet. There was not a scholar in the party,
so we all returned unenlightened, but profoundly interested and
impressed, and with that delightful sense of stimulated curiosity
which is worth more than all Eurekas. With the exception of a few
weapons and trinkets, which we saw at the museum, this is all that
remains of the mighty Etruscans, save the shapes of the common red
pottery which is spread out wholesale in the open space opposite the
cathedral on market-days--the most graceful and useful which could
be devised, and which have not changed their model since earlier days
than the occupants of those tombs could remember.

[Illustration: THE TIBER NEAR PERUGIA.]

The conquering Roman has left his sign-manual everywhere, but one
is so used to him in Italy that the scantier records of later ages
interest us more here. Like every other old Italian town, Perugia
had its great family, the Baglioni, who lorded it over the place,
sometimes harshly and cruelly enough, sometimes generously and
splendidly--protectors of popular rights and patrons of art and
letters. Their mediaeval history is full of pi