ntine,
and Buckingham House, which lay to the south over the hill,--all were
one to us in wonder as they loomed through the glittering mist that
softened all. We met with a stream of countless wagons that spoke of
a trade beyond knowledge, sprinkled with the equipages of the gentry
floating upon it; coach and chaise, cabriolet and chariot, gorgeously
bedecked with heraldry and wreaths; their numbers astonished me, for
to my mind the best of them were no better than we could boast in
Annapolis. One matter, which brings a laugh as I recall it, was the
oddity to me of seeing white coachmen and footmen.

We clattered down St. James's Street, of which I had often heard my
grandfather speak, and at length we drew up before the Star and Garter
in Pall Mall, over against the palace. The servants came hurrying out,
headed by a chamberlain clad in magnificent livery, a functionary we had
not before encountered. John Paul alighted to face this personage, who,
the moment he perceived us, shifted his welcoming look to one of such
withering scorn as would have daunted a more timid man than the captain.
Without the formality of a sir he demanded our business, which started
the inn people and our own boy to snickering, and made the passers-by
pause and stare. Dandies who were taking the air stopped to ogle us with
their spying-glasses and to offer quips, and behind them gathered
the flunkies and chairmen awaiting their masters at the clubs and
coffee-houses near by. What was my astonishment, therefore, to see a
change in the captain's demeanour. Truly for quick learning and the
application of it I have never known his equal. His air became the one
of careless ease habitual to the little gentleman we had met at Windsor,
and he drew from his pocket one of his guineas, which he tossed in the
man's palm.

"Here, my man," said he, snapping his fingers; "an apartment at once, or
you shall pay for this nonsense, I promise you." And walked in with his
chin in the air, so grandly as to dissolve ridicule into speculation.

For an instant the chamberlain wavered, and I trembled, for I dreaded a
disgrace in Pall Mall, where the Manners might hear of it. Then fear, or
hope of gain, or something else got the better of him, for he led us
to a snug, well-furnished suite of a parlour and bedroom on the
first floor, and stood bowing in the doorway for his honour's further
commands. They were of a sort to bring the sweat to my forehead.

"Have a fell