hurous vapor, blowing cones, accumulating deposits of
acicular crystals of sulphur, etc., and the pit itself is constantly
rent and shaken by earthquakes. Great eruptions occur with circumstances
of indescribable terror and dignity; but Kilauea does not limit its
activity to these outbursts, but has exhibited its marvellous phenomena
through all known time in a lake or lakes on the southern part of the
crater three miles from this side.

"This lake--the Hale-mau-mau, or 'House of everlasting Fire', of
the Hawaiian mythology, the abode of the dreaded goddess Pele--is
approachable with safety, except during an eruption. The spectacle,
however, varies almost daily; and at times the level of the lava in the
pit within a pit is so low, and the suffocating gases are evolved in
such enormous quantities, that travellers are unable to see anything.

"At the time of our visit there had been no news from it for a week; and
as nothing was to be seen but a very faint bluish vapor hanging round
its margin, the prospect was not encouraging. After more than an hour
of very difficult climbing, we reached the lowest level of the crater,
pretty nearly a mile across, presenting from above the appearance of a
sea at rest; but on crossing it, we found it to be an expanse of waves
and convolutions of ashy-colored lava, with huge cracks filled up with
black iridescent rolls of lava only a few weeks old. Parts of it are
very rough and ridgy, jammed together like field-ice, or compacted by
rolls of lava, which may have swelled up from beneath; but the largest
part of the area presents the appearance of huge coiled hawsers, the
ropy formation of the lava rendering the illusion almost perfect. These
are riven by deep cracks, which emit hot sulphurous vapors.

"As we ascended, the flow became hotter under our feet, as well as more
porous and glistening. It was so hot that a shower of rain hissed as it
fell upon it. The crust became increasingly insecure, and necessitated
our walking in single file with the guide in front, to test the security
of the footing. I fell through several times, and always into holes full
of sulphurous steam so malignantly acid that my strong dogskin gloves
were burned through as I raised myself on my hands.

"We had followed the lava-flow for thirty miles up to the crater's
brink, and now we had toiled over recent lava for three hours, and, by
all calculations, were close to the pit; yet there was no smoke or sign
of f