cool above but still alive with fire
below. We could see dimly the extent of the destruction beyond the
barrier of brown which had enclosed the streets, torn down the houses,
invaded the vineyards and broken Cook's railways. A better idea of the
surroundings was obtained at dawn from the railway. We saw north what
was left of Bosco Trecase--a great, square stone church and a few houses
inland in a sea of dull, brown lava. North and east rose a thousand
patches of blue smoke like swamp miasma. All was dull and desolate slag,
with nowhere the familiar serpentine forms of the old lava streams. In
terrible contrast with the volcanic evidences were strong cypresses and
blooming camelias in a neighboring cemetery.

"We ate a hasty luncheon before sunrise, when the great beauty of the
scene was revealed. The column now seemed higher and more massive,
rising to three times the height of Vesuvius. Each portion had a
concentric motion and new aspects. The south edges floating toward the
sea showed exquisite curved surfaces, due to the upper moving current.
It was like the decoration of the side of a great sarcophagus. As a
yellow dust hangs over Naples and hides the volcano, I count myself
fortunate to have seen all day from leeward this spectacle of changing,
undiminishing beauty.

"The wedge of cultivated land ruined east of the volcano extended at
least ten miles, with a width of twenty or thirty miles. Fancy a rich
and thickly populated country of vineyards lying under three to six
inches of ashes and cinders of the color of chocolate with milk, while
above, to the west, the volcano in full activity is distributing to the
outer edges of the circle the same fate, and you will get an idea of the
desolate impression of the scene, a tragedy colossal and heartrending.
Like that of Calabria, it enlists the sympathy of the civilized world.
It takes time for such a calamity to be realized.

"Two miles below San Giuseppe we struck cinders which the soldiers
were shoveling, making a narrow road for the refugees. Our wagon driver
begged off from completing his contract to take us to San Giuseppe. We
had not the heart to insist, so the rest of the journey to the railway
at Palma, eight miles, was made laboriously on foot for three hours
through sliding cinders.

"In many places temporary shelters had been built by the roadside,
like children's playhouses. Here women were huddled with their bedding,
awaiting the coming of supplies whi