e continued experience of acts of kindness and generosity,
which his destitute condition did not allow him to reciprocate, Captain
Bonneville passed some short time among these good people, more and more
impressed with the general excellence of their character.

33.

Scenery of the Way-lee-way--A substitute for tobacco--
Sublime scenery of--Snake River--The garrulous old chief and
his cousin--A Nez-Perce meeting--A stolen skin--The
scapegoat dog--Mysterious conferences--The little chief--His
hospitality--The captain's account of the United States--His
healing skill

IN RESUMING HIS JOURNEY, Captain Bonneville was conducted by the
same Nez Perce guide, whose knowledge of the country was important
in choosing the routes and resting places. He also continued to be
accompanied by the worthy old chief with the hard name, who seemed
bent upon doing the honors of the country, and introducing him to every
branch of his tribe. The Way-lee-way, down the banks of which Captain
Bonneville and his companions were now travelling, is a considerable
stream winding through a succession of bold and beautiful scenes.
Sometimes the landscape towered into bold and mountainous heights that
partook of sublimity; at other times, it stretched along the water side
in fresh smiling meadows, and graceful undulating valleys.

Frequently in their route they encountered small parties of the Nez
Perces, with whom they invariably stopped to shake hands; and who,
generally, evinced great curiosity concerning them and their adventures;
a curiosity which never failed to be thoroughly satisfied by the replies
of the worthy Yo-mus-ro-y-e-cut, who kindly took upon himself to be
spokesman of the party.

The incessant smoking of pipes incident to the long talks of this
excellent, but somewhat garrulous old chief, at length exhausted all his
stock of tobacco, so that he had no longer a whiff with which to regale
his white companions. In this emergency, he cut up the stem of his
pipe into fine shavings, which he mixed with certain herbs, and thus
manufactured a temporary succedaneum to enable him to accompany his long
colloquies and harangues with the customary fragrant cloud.

If the scenery of the Way-lee-way had charmed the travellers with its
mingled amenity and grandeur, that which broke upon them on once more
reaching Snake River, filled them with admiration and astonishment. At
times, the river was overhung by da