ell to the ground. My horses
after four or five days began to look rather low in flesh; so I bid my
host farewell and returned to Pietermaritzburg. On nearing the Umganie
drift, I found the river swollen into a complete torrent, occasioned by
some heavy showers and storms that had fallen up the country. The
rivers of Africa are never to be trusted, for a traveller may pass with
dry feet over the bed of a river in the morning, and on returning in the
evening find a roaring torrent across his path.

Feeling indisposed for a swim, I accepted the offer of a shake-down at
the house of a Dutchman, a mile or so from the river. He was a very
good sort of fellow, but given to grumble. He was in low spirits when I
first saw him, as all his cattle had disappeared and he was fearful the
Bushmen had carried them off. Upon discovering his loss he at once sent
in to the magistrate of the Kaffirs at Pietermaritzburg, who sent a
party out in search of the lost herds. The cattle were soon found, as
they had only strayed some few miles, attracted by sweet grass. We were
sitting at dinner, zee-koe pork (hippopotamus flesh) and tough pudding
being the bill of fare; when the Dutchman suddenly jumped up, and
exclaimed, "Now I will say the government is good." I looked round and
saw that this remark was brought forth by his seeing all his cattle
returning under the escort of the police, every head being safe and
sound. The man who ought to have watched the cattle while they were
grazing had fallen asleep; they walked away, the man awoke, and not
seeing them, at once reported to his master that the Bushmen had carried
them all off.

The river decreasing during the night, I returned to Pietermaritzburg on
the next day.

CHAPTER SEVENTEEN.

AFRICAN MOONLIGHT--POOR CHARLEY--WANT OF PATIENCE--BLUE LIGHT IN THE
BUSH--BUCK KILLED BY A LEOPARD--STRANGE FOLLOWERS--PORCUPINE HUNT--
PRACTICAL JOKE--FOOLHARDY CONDUCT--A MISTAKE--KAFFIR PROPHET--A DARK
PATRIARCH--CONJUGAL AUTHORITY--STRONG-HEADED INDIVIDUAL--HARBOUR
SHARKS--FISH SPEARING--INTOXICATING ROOT--A SUGGESTED EXPERIMENT--
VARIETY OF FISH.

The moonlight nights in South Africa are particularly fine and
brilliant; I have frequently read manuscript writing without difficulty,
even when the moon has not been quite at the full. Things viewed by its
light seem always to be more peaceable and mysterious than by the
sunlight. Few, for example, fully appreciate the beauties of the
M