with a long pole or rail on their shoulders with which they
"pulled hickory root." The young sprout was "withed" around near one end
of the pole, then all hands put their shoulders under the long end and
with an "altogether, heave, oh," draw up a tap root 4, 6 and 8 feet
long. The lowest end was the choicest and sweetest. It was delicious and
in the division of a day's hunt some of these found their way to "his
best girl" at school.

Whether the water down in these lower depths possesses these qualities,
and that they are necessary to give the Oregon walnut its superiority is
yet a matter of speculation, but that these conditions exist is well
known and should have fullest consideration by the intelligent walnut
culturist.

[Illustration: _Tap Root of a Two-year-old Black Walnut showing how the
root grows down to permanent water level, thus insuring full crops
regardless of weather conditions_]

Cut of tap root of a 2-year-old American Black which grew in the lower
red hill land of Yamhill County. There is but one lateral root near the
surface and this was probably caused by the tap root striking harder
soil on its way down to permanent moisture level.

This tap root is 3 feet long and nearly 6 inches in circumference. It is
one of the best object lessons to be had in walnut culture in Oregon.

Though the Willamette Valley has practically four rainless months of
sunshine, irrigation is unnecessary. There is no other country
comparable to it. Its cool and dewy summer nights, together with its
great subterranean reservoir supplied by the winter rains, are the
reasons why its crops never fail and why its fruits fill "red, round and
luscious," and why the walnut has so persistently shown its preference
for this favored region.

WALNUT CULTIVATION

While the walnut is the hardiest of trees and in many cases has borne
heavily in Oregon without cultivation, experience has proved that, like
fruit trees, cultivation up to the tenth or twelfth years increases the
growth, the yield and the quality of the product. After full maturity no
further cultivation is necessary, the tree taking care of itself with
the independence of any forest tree.

With a young grove it is best to plow between the rows after the rains
cease in the spring, and then stir the ground occasionally all through
the summer with the harrow or disk; this holds the moisture. When some
trees seem backward a trench should be dug some two feet or so