the piece of fat in it called the _pope's eye_, is
considered a delicate _morceau_ by epicures. A gigot of Leicester,
Cheviot, or Southdown mutton makes a beautiful 'boiled leg of mutton,'
which is prized the more the fatter it is, as this part of the
carcass is never overloaded with fat. The loin is almost always
roasted, the flap of the flank being skewered up, and it is a juicy
piece. For a small family, the black-faced mutton is preferable; for
a large, the Southdown and Cheviot. Many consider this piece of
Leicester mutton roasted as too rich, and when warm, this is
probably the case; but a cold roast loin is an excellent summer dish.
The back-ribs are divided into two, and used for very different
purposes. The fore-part, the neck, is boiled and makes sweet
barley-broth, and the meat, when well boiled, or rather the whole
pottage simmered for a considerable time _beside_ the fire, eats
tenderly. The back-ribs make an excellent roast; indeed, there is
not a sweeter or more varied one in the carcass, having both ribs
and shoulder. The shoulder-blade eats best cold, and the ribs warm.
The ribs make excellent chops. The Leicester and Southdowns afford
the best mutton-chops. The breast is mostly a roasting-piece,
consisting of rib and shoulder, and is particularly good when cold.
When the piece is large, as of Southdown or Cheviot, the gristly
part of the ribs may be divided from the true ribs, and helped
separately. The breast is an excellent piece in black-faced mutton,
and suitable to small families, the shoulder being eaten cold, while
the ribs and brisket are sweet and juicy when warm. This piece also
boils well; or, when corned for eight days, and served with onion
sauce, with mashed turnip in it, there are few more savoury dishes
at a farmer's table. The shoulder is separated before being dressed,
and makes an excellent roast for family use, and may be eaten warm or
cold, or corned and dressed as the breast mentioned above. The
shoulder is best from a large carcass of Southdown, Cheviot, or
Leicester, the black-faced being too thin for the purpose; and it was
probably because English mutton is usually large that the practice
of removing it originated. The neckpiece is partly laid bare by the
removal of the shoulder, the fore-part being fitted for boiling and
making into broth, and the best end for roasting or broiling into
chops. On this account this is a good family piece, and in such
request among the tradesme