on lake.

Shades and Tints.--A bright red is best got from pale vermilion, with a
little carmine added; dark vermilion, when mixed with the varnish,
produces a dull color. Orange lead and vermilion ground together also
produce a very bright tint, and one that is more permanent than an entire
vermilion color. The pigments are dear; when a cheap job is in hand,
orange mineral, rose pink and red lead may be used.

Yellow.--Of the materials named, the chromate of lead makes the brightest
color. If a dull yellow be wanted, yellow ochre may be used; it grinds
easily and is very cheap.

Blue.--Indigo is excessively dark, and requires a good deal of trouble to
lighten it. It makes a fine, showy color where brightness is not required.
Prussian blue is useful, but it must be thoroughly ground. It dries very
quickly, hence the roller must be frequently cleaned. Antwerp blue is very
light and easily worked. Chinese blue is also available. As already said,
the shade may be varied with flake white. There is this objection to
Prussian, Antwerp, and Chinese blues, that they are hard to grind, and
likely to turn greenish with varnish when used thin. A bright blue is also
to be got from cobalt, or French or German ultramarine. This is cheap,
easily ground, and works freely. Lime blue may also be used.

Green.--Any of the yellows and blues may be mixed. Gamboge, a transparent
color, is very useful in mixture with Prussian blue; or chromate of lead
and Prussian blue may be used. The varnish, having a yellow tinge, has an
effect upon the mixture, and should be taken into account. With a slight
quantity of Antwerp blue, varnish in itself will produce a decidedly
greenish tint. Verdigris and green verditer also give greens. If Chinese
blue be added to pale chrome, it gives a good green, and any shade can be
obtained by increasing or diminishing either color. Emerald green is got
by mixing pale chrome with a little Chinese blue, and then adding the
emerald until the tint is satisfactory.

Brown.--Sepia gives a nice tint, and burnt umber a very hot tint. Raw
umber gives a brighter brown, bistre a brighter still.

Neutral tints are obtained by mixing Prussian blue, lake and gamboge.

In using painters' colors, it is advisable to avoid, as much as possible,
the heavy ones.

Tints of any desired depth may be made by using a finely-ground white ink
as a basis, and toning it with the color desired.

Varnish tints are made by adding color to