mules--for we had again mounted--by the branches of
trees. We met a party of peons conveying salt on the backs of oxen to
Cartage. The cargoes were small, and placed in such a manner as to
enable the animals to pass through these narrow places. Fortunately
there was an opening near the spot, or we should have been unable to
pass each other.

At last we reached a tambo, or shed, built for the use of travellers--
the first sign of civilisation we had met since we left the western side
of the Cordilleras.

We were now once more in a warmer region. Butterflies of large size,
covered with orange-coloured spots, fluttered about; and red monkeys
leapt from tree to tree, frequently coming down to make grimaces at us.
Another day's journey brought us to a cottage inhabited by peasants, who
gave us a satisfactory welcome.

At length we reached the place where we were to part from our silleros
and peons, and continue our journey on horseback.

"I hope that we shall meet again," I said to Manoel, who had won my
regard.

"We shall, senor, it may be, if you do not soon leave the country,"
replied Manoel, looking earnestly at me.

"I may stay longer than I at first intended," I said.

Manoel and the rest of our attendants were well satisfied with the
payment we had made them.

Mr Laffan and I, with Domingo, now continued our journey on horseback,
the roads being tolerable. But, eager as we were to reach Bogota, we
agreed that it would be wise, the better to keep up our assumed
character, to visit the waterfall of Tequendama, which was not far out
of our direct road. It is formed by the river Bogota, which is
hereabouts sixty yards in breadth.

As soon as we got within a mile or so of it, we obtained a guide to show
us the way. At a height of six hundred feet above the plain of Bogota,
we enjoyed a magnificent view, embracing the various windings of the
river, several large lakes, and enormous forests--the city in the
distance, backed by a range of bold mountains. Thence we began to
descend towards the waterfall, the sides of the hill being abrupt and
slippery. We passed through a grand, gloomy forest, the lofty boughs of
the trees sheltering us from the rays of the hot sun. All was silent,
except the deep, fine note of the tropiole, which was occasionally
heard; while through the openings we caught sight of other birds of
brilliant plumage, which here live unmolested.

Leaving our horses, the dominie and I desce