s of stout rope with grappling hooks attached, by which they would
be able to anchor by throwing the hooks round some object on the bank.

Notwithstanding these precautions there was considerable danger in
navigating the river in some parts, where occurred rapids and rocks, and
occasionally as we were informed, a raft would get overturned or broken
up, in which case the men in charge would have to swim for their lives
or drown unless they had taken the precaution to provide themselves with
lifebelts.

We left our horses and most of the impedimenta there, and about mid-day
took boat with three of the McClean men to assist at the oars. The boat
was a fine one and carried a light sail, which unfortunately was no use
to us, the little wind there was being dead ahead.

The Wanaka is, I believe, the largest and most beautiful lake in New
Zealand. On one side, for nearly the entire length, it was bounded by
steep hills, for the greater part clothed with forest and undergrowth
crowned by noble promontories and headlands. Above and beyond were seen
the mountains receding away to the snow line in their various and
changing colours. The opposite side was more homely and less grand in
outline, but still very lovely. The low hills were broken by extensive
tracts of undulating or flat land, where flocks of sheep or herds of
cattle grazed, bordered by sedges and marshes with flocks of wild duck
in all the enjoyment of an undisturbed existence.

Looking up the lake to where the mountains seemed to meet, the colouring
and grandeur of the scene was sublime. Since I voyaged up the Wanaka I
have seen mountain scenery in many other lands, but I cannot call to
mind anything which for beauty and grandeur surpasses that by which I
was now surrounded. It had, may be, a peculiar wildness of its own not
elsewhere to be met with, except in the Himalayas, and no doubt much of
the effect is due to the exceeding rarity of the atmosphere, and hence
the greater extent of landscape which can be observed at once.

CHAPTER XVII.

EXPLORATION TRIP CONTINUED--WEEKAS--INSPECTION OF NEW
COUNTRY--ESCAPE FROM FIRE.

It was some time after dark when we arrived at Wynne's Station, which
was situated in a bend behind a promontory, and not observable until
close upon it. The owner was absent, but we were received by the
overseer, Mr. Brand, and his assistants, two young gentlemen cadets. The
run, which was recently taken up, was suited only