ndwithiel was a wild little place. It was essentially a "fishing
village." The people ploughed the deep, not the land; and the constant
exposure--blow high, blow low--on the restless sea, endued its
inhabitants, and the Cornish fishermen generally, with a fearlessness of
danger and boldness of character almost unequalled in these islands. The
lives and pursuits of the two great classes in this county--the maritime
and mining population--are widely opposite to each other. The one class
pass their existence on the stormy waters of the deep, whilst the other
labour far below the surface of the earth; each being continually
exposed to numberless perils and dangers.

When I descended below I found my host already astir; so after attending
well to the inward man, I lost no time in starting towards the harbour.
As I formerly described, this comes abruptly in sight round a sharp
angle, at some elevation from the beach. On the upper part of the
descent the road was flanked on each side with a row of cottages, the
street being so steep that steps were formed in many parts to aid the
progress of the passenger. This gave an air of singularity and wildness
to the place, which was aided by the boldness of the surrounding
scenery. The street bore all the marks of the occupation of the
inhabitants--nets hanging to dry--strings of fish--an old oar--or a
"fisher's wife" broiling fish for her husband's breakfast--met the eye
on either side.

On clearing the street, I observed a larger throng on the old pier than
was wont to gather there on ordinary occasions. There was obviously some
unusual subject of interest agitated amongst them; so I turned from my
course and joined the group.

A gale is an important event in a fishing town. Independent of the
interest naturally felt for the various craft belonging to the place
which may happen to be afloat, there may be wrecks or other marine
casualties to excite the interest or cupidity of the observer.

There was a tremendous tumbling sea rolling into the little bay, when I
drew towards the pier. At the further end was a group of persons in
earnest conversation, whom I distinguished as the knowing ones and
long-heads of the place; while their younger companions were engaged in
parties walking briskly to and fro on the pier. A tier of boats had been
carefully drawn up high and dry beyond the wreck left by the last spring
tide. Four or five, however, were afloat, and lurching heavily alongside
t