The sands of
this river formerly yielded much gold; and there is gold still to be had
from the same source, if one has energy enough to seek it. There are no
less than 37 streets and 4 squares,--the Principal, Mercado, Iglesia, and
Teatro,--all adorned by dainty fountains, and, in one instance,--the Plaza
del Teatro,--a veritable ocean of flowers as well. The Calle Mendez-Vigo
is one of the most picturesque and attractive streets in the world. It
stretches from one end of the town to the other, wide and beautifully
clean; and it is lined on either hand by the handsome houses of rich
merchants. In the middle of its length lies the Plaza del Flores, between
the theatre and the Hotel Paris. Moreover, it is in the Calle Mendez-Vigo
that there lives the prettiest girl in Puerto Rico,--a little maid of
sixteen years, Esperanza Bages by name, and already famous for her charms.

The church was built in 1760. It is of masonry, with two towers and
magnificent altars. The town hall, situated on the Plaza Principal, is a
good stone building of two stories. Annexed to it is the Casa del Rey,
built in 1832, and serving for offices of the military commandancy. The
infantry barracks--Cuartel del Infanteria--is also a building of modern
construction, dating from 1848; and, though of simple architecture, it is
very capacious.

And now let us leave Mayaguez for a little while, and get on with the war.

[Illustration: Infantry Barracks, Mayaguez.]

CHAPTER VIII

The Engagement at Las Marias

_Difficulties encountered in locating the retreating enemy_--_Final
determination upon pursuit_--_Lieutenant-Colonel Burke sets
forth_--_Discovery of Spanish troops near Las Marias_--_A one-sided
encounter_--_Unwelcome notification of truce_--_The rest of the brigade
comes up_--_Feeding the prisoners_--_Our disappointment_.

HEADQUARTERS INDEPENDENT BRIGADE (REGULARS),

MAYACUEZ, PUERTO RICO,

Aug. 22, 1898.

GENERAL J.C. GILMORE, Headquarters of the Army, Ponce, P.R.

_Sir_,--... Detachments from the cavalry troop went out (from Mayaguez) in
the afternoon of the 11th on both roads leading to Lares; but the left hand
or westerly of these roads was followed only a short distance, information,
thought to be reliable, having been received to the effect that the bulk of
the enemy's force had taken the more easterly road, on which the town of
Maricao is situated. This part of the force was reported as making fair
headway, having only a pa