was the best pasture we had
seen in the country; but we learned, to our dismay, from the little
boy, who was the only person we saw, that there was no water. The place
was worse supplied than any we had yet visited. There was neither well,
cueva, nor aguada, and the inhabitants depended entirely upon the
rain-water collected in the hollows of the rocks. As to a supply for
four horses, it was utterly out of the question. Any long stay at this
place was, of course, impossible; but immediate wants were pressing.
Our horses had not touched water since morning, and, after a long, hot,
and toilsome journey, we could not think of their going without all
night.

The little boy was hovering about the rancho in charge of a naked
sister some two years old, and commissioned, as he told us himself, to
watch that we did not take anything from the hut. For a medio he
undertook to show me the place where they procured water, and, mounting
his little sister upon his back, he led the way up a steep and stony
hill I followed with the bridle of my horse in my hand, and, without
any little girl on my back, found it difficult to keep up with him. On
the top of the hill were worn and naked rocks, with deep hollows in
them, some holding perhaps as much as one or two pails of water. I led
my horse to one of the largest. He was always an extraordinary water
drinker, and that evening was equal to a whole temperance society. The
little Indian looked on as if he had sold his birthright, and I felt
strong compunctions; but, letting the morrow take care of itself, I
sent up the other horses, which consumed at a single drinking what
might, perhaps, have sufficed the family a month.

In the mean time our own wants were not slight. We had been on the road
all day; and had eaten nothing. Unluckily, the old sexton had taken for
his load the box containing our table furniture and provisions for the
road, and we had not seen him since we left him at Sacbey. All the
other carriers had arrived. I had hired them to remain with us and work
at the ruins, and then carry the luggage to the next village. Part of
my contract was to feed them, and, knowing the state of things, they
scattered in search of supplies, returning, after a long absence, with
some tortillas, eggs, and lard. We had the eggs fried, and would,
perhaps, have been content but for our vexation with the sexton. While
we were swinging in our hammocks, we heard his voice at a distance, and
present