was but a comparatively short distance
to Versailles, to Saint Germain, to Maintenon and to Rambouillet, and
the near-by Louveciennes was literally strewn with the most charming
country-houses, which, in many cases, kings paid for and made free use
of, though indeed the accounts for the same may not have appeared in the
public budgets, at least not under their proper names.

At the summit of the hill which gives the town its name was a chateau
belonging originally to Madame la Princesse de Conti, and opposite the
railway station of to-day, with its prosaic and unlovely surroundings,
was a magnificent property belonging to Marechal Magnan, and the
Pavillon du Barry, built by the architect Ledoux to the orders of Louis
XV, who would provide a convenient nest in the neighbourhood of Saint
Cloud for his latest favourite. To-day the pavilion exists in name,
somewhat disfigured to be sure, but still reminiscent of its former
rather garish outlines, so on the whole it cannot be said to have
suffered greatly from an esthetic point of view. The property came
finally to be included as a part of the estate of Pierre Laffitte,
though still known, as it always has been, as the Pavillon du Barry.

CHAPTER XV

VERSAILLES: THE GLORY OF FRANCE

"_Glorieuse, monumentale et monotone
La facade de pierre effrite, au vent qui passe
Son chapiteau friable et sa guirlande lasse
En face du parc jaune ou s'accoude l'automne._
* * *
_Mais le soleil, aux vitres d'or qu'il incendie
Y semble rallumer interieurement
Le sursaut, chaque soir de la Gloire engourdi._"

These lines of Henri de Regnier explain the aspect of the Versailles of
to-day better than any others ever written.

Versailles is a medley of verdure, a hierarchy of bronze and a forest of
marble. This is an expression full of anomalies, but it is strictly
applicable to Versailles. Its waters, jets and cascades, its monsters,
its Tritons and Valhalla of marble statues set off the artificial
background in a manner only to be compared to a stage setting--a
magnificent stage setting, but still palpably unreal.

Yes, Versailles is sad and grim to-day; one hardly knows why, for its
memories still live, and the tangible evidences of most of its great
splendour still stand.

"_Voici tes ifs en cone et tes tritons joufflus
Tes jardins composes ou Louis ne vient plus,
Et ta pompe arborant les plumes et les casques._"

It is