barter with the Samoyeds, and with their help to fish and
hunt in the neighbouring sea. During winter the Samoyeds drive their
herds to more southern regions, and the merchants carry their wares
to Pustosersk, Mesen, Archangel, and other places. Thus it has
probably gone on for centuries back, but it is only in comparatively
recent times that fixed dwellings have been erected, for they are
not mentioned in the accounts of the voyages of the Dutch in these
regions.

The village, or "Samoyed town" as the walrus-hunters grandiosely
call it, consists, like other great towns, of two portions, the town
of the rich--some cabins built of wood, with flat turf-covered
roofs--and the quarter of the common people, a collection of dirty
Samoyed tents. There is, besides, a little church, where, as at
several places along the shore, votive crosses have been erected.
The church is a wooden building, divided by a partition wall into
two parts, of which the inner, the church proper, is little more
than two and a half metres in height and about five metres square.
On the eastern wall during the time the region is inhabited, there
is a large number of sacred pictures placed there for the occasion
by the hunters. One of them, which represented St. Nicholas, was
very valuable, the material being embossed silver gilt. Before the
lamps hung large dinted old copper lamps or rather light-holders,
resembling inverted Byzantine cupolas, suspended by three chains.

[Illustration: CHURCH OF CHABAROVA. After a photograph by L. Palander. ]

They were set full of numerous small, and some few thick wax lights
which were lighted on the occasion of our visit. Right above our
landing-place there were lying a number of sledges laden with goods
which the Russian merchants had procured by barter, and which were
to be conveyed to Pustosersk the following autumn. The goods
consisted mainly of train oil and the skins of the mountain fox,
common fox, Polar bear, glutton, reindeer, and seal. The bears'
skins had often a very close, white winter coat, but they were
spoiled by the head and paws having been cut off. Some of the wolf
skins which they showed us were very close and fine. The merchants
had besides collected a considerable stock of goose quills,
feathers, down, and ptarmigans' wings. For what purpose these last
are used I could not learn. I was merely informed that they would be
sold in Archangel. Perhaps they go thence to the dealers in fashions
in