man nor beast. I was cramped and painfully tired, and feeling
that if I could but walk for a few minutes it would be quite a relief,
I dismounted--quite a difficult thing to do and keep from sprawling
upon the ground. But I was no sooner off my horse than Haleel was
beside me, and my dragoman, who was at that time nearly a hundred yards
ahead of me, rode back and sternly commanded: "You get right back on
that horse; this is no time to think of walking; you can do that some
other time." Inwardly I resented it; how could I stand it longer! I
blamed it on the saddle, then I thought that they must have given me
the worst horse of the three. But all this helped nothing. They
assisted me again into the saddle. Then my guide delivered a little
speech in Arabic to Haleel. I did not then understand it, but shortly
after I learned the essence of it; it was, "You keep your eye on him
and see that he keeps his horse moving." When I found myself again in
the saddle I determined that if I must ride there would be no more
trotting of my horse,--I would proceed as gently as possible. But,
alas! Haleel had his whip and my dream of controlling my horse was
over. After that I kept close to my dragoman. At that time I thought it
harsh treatment, but later I understood.

We have reached the limit of level land and are now winding among the
eastern foot-hills of the mountains of Gilead. It is the hour of sunset
and the great orb of day sinks in sad beauty to me. In the twilight I
see here and there half-buried pillars of some famous temple--a temple
that surely never stood here. Our horses are wet with sweat; we have
not halted for lunch; not a drop of water has been seen; night is
coming on with its pale moon casting weird shadows about us; we are
alone in a land noted for its lawlessness, and yet we are unarmed. We
move on almost in silence. There is silence about us, save for the cry
now and then of some night-bird. We see no lights save those above us.
My guide seems bewildered and uncertain as to the location of the town
we seek. I am faint from weariness, and so cramped that at times it is
with difficulty that I keep from falling to the ground. I am now quite
solicitous as to our safety and not a little alarmed when our way leads
through some rocky, narrow passage suggestive of a lurking-place for
men of evil intent. But at last, at half-past nine o'clock, after being
in the saddle for nine hours, I am aroused from my stupor by a joyfu