e of the late wars against the French republic. Bought a
dog. The greater part of this tour has been on horseback, on foot, and
on mule.
"September 28.
"Saw the tree planted in honour of the battle of Morat; three hundred
and forty years old; a good deal decayed. Left Fribourg, but first saw
the cathedral; high tower. Overtook the baggage of the nuns of La
Trappe, who are removing to Normandy; afterwards a coach, with a
quantity of nuns in it. Proceeded along the banks of the lake of
Neuchatel; very pleasing and soft, but not so mountainous--at least, the
Jura, not appearing so, after the Bernese Alps. Reached Yverdun in the
dusk; a long line of large trees on the border of the lake; fine and
sombre; the auberge nearly full--a German princess and suite; got rooms.
"September 29.
"Passed through a fine and flourishing country, but not mountainous. In
the evening reached Aubonne (the entrance and bridge something like that
of Durham), which commands by far the fairest view of the Lake of
Geneva; twilight; the moon on the lake; a grove on the height, and of
very noble trees. Here Tavernier (the eastern traveller) bought (or
built) the chateau, because the site resembled and equalled that of
_Erivan_, a frontier city of Persia; here he finished his voyages, and I
this little excursion,--for I am within a few hours of Diodati, and have
little more to see, and no more to say."
With the following melancholy passage this Journal concludes:--
"In the weather for this tour (of 13 days), I have been very
fortunate--fortunate in a companion (Mr. H.)--fortunate in our
prospects, and exempt from even the little petty accidents and delays
which often render journeys in a less wild country disappointing. I was
disposed to be pleased. I am a lover of nature and an admirer of beauty.
I can bear fatigue and welcome privation, and have seen some of the
noblest views in the world. But in all this--the recollection of
bitterness, and more especially of recent and more home desolation,
which must accompany me through life, have preyed upon me here; and
neither the music of the shepherd, the crashing of the avalanche, nor
the torrent, the mountain, the glacier, the forest, nor the cloud, have
for one moment lightened the weight upon my heart, nor enabled me to
lose my own wretched identity in the majesty, and the power, and the
glory, around, above, and beneath me."
* * * * *
Among the inmat
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