ROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH

PAINTED BY

JAMES ORROCK, R.I.

(_See pp. 36 and 74_)

[Illustration]

The Irthing valley is replete with historical remains and literary
associations. Over there, to the north of Bewcastle (Beuth's Castle),
there is a celebrated Runic Cross nearly fifteen feet high, of the
Caedmon order, similar to that at Ruthwell. The Irthing flows through
the wide moorish wilderness known as Spade-Adam, or the Waste, crosses
the Roman Wall at Gilsland, thence courses amongst some of the richest
scenery in Cumberland until it meets the Eden. Gilsland Spa has long
been noted for the excellence of its waters and the remarkable salubrity
of the district. Scott stayed at the old Shaw's Hotel in July, 1797, not
the present palatial Convalescent Home (as it now is) which was rebuilt
after a fire about fifty years since. Charlotte Carpenter was a guest at
Wardrew House, directly opposite. They met often, and the result was
love and marriage. On a huge boulder by the banks of the Irthing, where
the glen comes to its steepest and wears its most enchanting aspect,
Scott is said to have "popped the question," and the "Kissing Bush"
where the compact was sealed is also pointed out close by. At Gilsland
it is interesting to recall that one is to some extent in "Guy Mannering
Land." A small private dwelling adjoining the Methodist Chapel claims to
stand on the site of the notorious Mumps Ha', "a hedge ale-house, where
the Border farmers of either country often stopped to refresh themselves
and their nags on their way to and from the fairs and trysts in
Cumberland." It was there that young Harry Bertram first met Dandie
Dinmont and the weird figure of Meg Merrilies, who, by the way, was not
buried at Upper Denton, as the guide-books say. It was the treacherous
landlady, Meg Mumps or Margaret Carrick, who is there interred. The more
important Meg--the real heroine of the story--was drowned in the Eden at
Carlisle. Gilsland is a centre for some delightful excursions. Much of
the Roman Wall may be visited from this centre, its two chief stations
Borcovicus (Housesteads) and Burdoswald being within easy distances. The
little Northumberland lakes, and the prettiest of them all, Crag Loch,
the Nine Nicks of Thirlwall, seen from the Shaws with fine effect,
Thirlwall and Blenkinsop Castles, Haltwhistle Church, all to the east,
are objects of deep and abiding interest. Westward are Burdoswald--the
Roman Amboglanna--cov