334
IV. ORDERED SOUTH 345
V. AES TRIPLEX 358
VI. EL DORADO 368
VII. THE ENGLISH ADMIRALS 372
VIII. SOME PORTRAITS BY RAEBURN 385
IX. CHILD'S PLAY 394
X. WALKING TOURS 406
XI. PAN'S PIPES 415
XII. A PLEA FOR GAS LAMPS 420

THE AMATEUR EMIGRANT

_TO
ROBERT ALAN MOWBRAY STEVENSON_

_Our friendship was not only founded before we were born by a community
of blood, but is in itself near as old as my life. It began with our
early ages, and, like a history, has been continued to the present time.
Although we may not be old in the world, we are old to each other,
having so long been intimates. We are now widely separated, a great sea
and continent intervening; but memory, like care, mounts into iron ships
and rides post behind the horseman. Neither time nor space nor enmity
can conquer old affection; and as I dedicate these sketches, it is not
to you only, but to all in the old country, that I send the greeting of
my heart._

1879. _R. L. S._

PART I

FROM THE CLYDE TO SANDY HOOK

THE AMATEUR EMIGRANT

THE SECOND CABIN

I first encountered my fellow-passengers on the Broomielaw in Glasgow.
Thence we descended the Clyde in no familiar spirit, but looking askance
on each other as on possible enemies. A few Scandinavians, who had
already grown acquainted on the North Sea, were friendly and voluble
over their long pipes; but among English speakers distance and suspicion
reigned supreme. The sun was soon overclouded, the wind freshened and
grew sharp as we continued to descend the widening estuary; and with the
falling temperature the gloom among the passengers increased. Two of the
women wept. Any one who had come aboard might have supposed we were all
absconding from the law. There was scarce a word interchanged, and no
common sentiment but that of cold united us, until at length, having
touched at Greenock, a pointing arm and