ghts of Philadelphia, and
been twice ordered to change carriages and twice countermanded, before I
allowed myself to follow their example.

_Tuesday._--When I awoke, it was already day; the train was standing
idle; I was in the last carriage, and, seeing some others strolling to
and fro about the lines, I opened the door and stepped forth, as from a
caravan by the wayside. We were near no station, nor even, as far as I
could see, within reach of any signal. A green, open, undulating country
stretched away upon all sides. Locust trees and a single field of Indian
corn gave it a foreign grace and interest; but the contours of the land
were soft and English. It was not quite England, neither was it quite
France; yet like enough either to seem natural in my eyes. And it was in
the sky, and not upon the earth, that I was surprised to find a change.
Explain it how you may, and for my part I cannot explain it at all, the
sun rises with a different splendour in America and Europe. There is
more clear gold and scarlet in our old country mornings; more purple,
brown, and smoky orange in those of the new. It may be from habit, but
to me the coming of day is less fresh and inspiriting in the latter; it
has a duskier glory, and more nearly resembles sunset; it seems to fit
some subsequential, evening epoch of the world, as though America were
in fact, and not merely in fancy, farther from the orient of Aurora and
the springs of day. I thought so then, by the railroad-side in
Pennsylvania, and I have thought so a dozen times since in far distant
parts of the continent. If it be an illusion, it is one very deeply
rooted, and in which my eyesight is accomplice.

Soon after a train whisked by, announcing and accompanying its passage
by the swift beating of a sort of chapel-bell upon the engine; and as it
was for this we had been waiting, we were summoned by the cry of "All
aboard!" and went on again upon our way. The whole line, it appeared,
was topsy-turvy; an accident at midnight having thrown all the traffic
hours into arrear. We paid for this in the flesh, for we had no meals
all that day. Fruit we could buy upon the cars; and now and then we had
a few minutes at some station with a meagre show of rolls and sandwiches
for sale; but we were so many and so ravenous that, though I tried at
every opportunity, the coffee was always exhausted before I could elbow
my way to the counter.

Our American sunrise had ushered in a noble summer