th or leather doubled and stuffed, and in
itself oftentimes a most efficient case of defensive armour; this
garment, without sleeves, and universally worn by all classes of men, was
also occasionally introduced into the catalogue of ladies' attire, and no
doubt was the primitive model for the stays of later generations. Above
the gambeson was worn the _gorget_ or throat piece, beneath the _hauberk_
or coat of mail, by which it was concealed; this was the garment that
peculiarly designated the rank of the wearer. Esquires might not wear
sleeves of mail, and none might claim to wear the complete suit that were
not possessed of certain estates. Above the armour was usually worn some
outer dress, a surcoat or mantle of rich material. The sword belt was a
necessary part of the warrior's dress, and was often very elaborately
embellished with precious stones, but more commonly made simply of plain
leather. Another belt was also worn over the left shoulder, to support
the shield.

The helmet comprised the whole armour for the head and face, and usually
consisted of two parts, one moving over the other, by which means the
face could be uncovered or perfectly inclosed at pleasure. These
portions of the dress, however, varied to an almost infinite degree at
various times, and at a later period were exchanged for the Bacinet,
Cervaliere, Coif de fer, &c. &c.

Gloves of mail were attached to the sleeves of the hauberk, and were
sometimes divided at the extremities for the accommodation of the fingers
and thumb, but not often. Such was the military costume of the knight in
armour, and the dress of the spectators, both gentlemen and ladies, must
not altogether be left unnoticed. The tunic and rich surcoat above,
sometimes varied with a hooded mantle, and the robe a long garment of the
tunic kind, were the leading characteristics of male attire; shoes with
long points, cloth sandals, ornamented with embroidery, girdles enriched
with precious stones, gloves and spurs completed the suit.

The ladies wore gowns, or upper tunics, or robes, with surcoats varying
much in length, sometimes being shorter than the tunic, at others
trailing on the ground, with long loose sleeves, open beneath to the
elbow, and falling thence almost to the feet. Their mantles were made of
the richest materials, and copiously embellished with gold, silver, and
rich embroideries, sometimes decorated with fringes of gold, varying in
size almost as much as