_Thursday, June 6th._--We were on horseback at half-past four in the
morning. The day was cool and pleasant. Our road lay between the
mountains, in a narrow pass, formed by the dry bed of a torrent, with
gardens on each side. The mountains were cultivated in terraces, and
planted to the summit with vines and olives--"a lovely scene," Sir
Moses observed. Indeed it would have been impossible to travel through
a richer or more beautiful country.

We stopped to rest and take some refreshments, and started again,
ascending an extremely barren mountain, and at two o'clock reached
Shabia, or Gibeah, the commencement of the scene of destruction.

We dismounted, and read some of the Lamentations of Jeremiah, then
continued our journey till three o'clock, when we had the first view
of Jerusalem. Dismounting once again, we recited the usual prayers.

Hearing that the plague was yet in the city, Sir Moses deemed it
prudent not to enter. We therefore passed the walls and went up the
Mount of Olives, where we pitched our tents on a spot commanding a
magnificent view of the Holy City and Mosque of Omar, near the tomb of
"Huldah" the prophetess.

For two hours before reaching Jerusalem, the road by which we
travelled was stoney and deserted. Not a blade of grass or a tree was
visible. "Most fervently do I pray," Sir Moses remarked, "that the
wilderness of Zion may again be like Eden, and her desert like the
garden of the Lord."

_Friday, June 7th._--Before Sir Moses was up, the Governor of the city
came to pay him his respects, and waited till he was ready to receive
him, which he did under one of the olive trees, as we had declared
ourselves in quarantine. The Governor was exceedingly friendly, and
offered to accompany Sir Moses to the Jordan, Dead Sea, and Hebron,
and to do him any service in his power; he also sent a present of five
sheep. All the representatives of the Portuguese and German
congregations, accompanied by crowds of their members, came up to give
a heartfelt welcome to their future champion and his excellent wife,
bringing with them numerous presents of choice wines, fruit, and
cakes, besides articles of rich embroidery.

_Saturday, June 8th._--We recited our prayers under the shade of an
olive tree, directly opposite the spot where stood the Temple of
Solomon. Our situation commanded a splendid view of every part of the
city and the surrounding mountains. Our happy moments were
unfortunately disturbed by th