, where there was a great deal of up hill they required
more horses. At the time when they put on seven horses I knew that we
had come to a place where it was almost all up hill; and it was. The
road went winding around through a region of hills and valleys, but
ascending all the time. Still the road was so hard and smooth, and the
horses were so full of life, that we went on the full trot the whole
way. Four horses could not have done this, though, with such a heavy
load. It took seven.

"In almost all the villages we came to we saw long lines of wagons by
the road side. They were very curious wagons indeed. They were small.
Each one was to be drawn by one horse. There was no body to them, but
only two long poles going from the forward axletree to the back
axletree; and the load was packed on these poles, and covered with
canvas. It looked just like a big bundle tied up in a cloth. These were
wagons that had stopped for the night. Afterwards, when the morning
came, we overtook a great many trains of these wagons, on the road to
Geneva. They were loaded with merchandise going from France into
Switzerland. There was only one driver to the whole train. He went along
with the front wagon, and all the rest followed on in a line. The horses
were trained to follow in this way. Thus one man could take charge of a
train of six or eight wagons.

"There was one very curious thing in the arrangement, and that was, that
the last horse in the train had a bell on his neck, something like a cow
bell. This was to prevent the driver from having to look round
continually to see whether the rest of the horses were coming or not. As
long as he could hear the bell on the last one's neck he knew they were
all coming; for none of the middle ones could stop without stopping all
behind them.

"I suppose that sometimes some of the horses in the train would stop;
then the driver would observe that the bell ceased to ring, and he would
stop his own wagon, and go back to see what was the matter. If he found
that any of them stopped to eat grass by the way, or because they were
lazy, he would give them a whipping, and start them on, and that would
teach them to keep marching on the next time.

"I know what I would do if I were the last horse. Whenever I wanted to
stop and rest I would keep shaking my head all the time, and that would
make the driver think that I was coming along.

"One time, when we were stopping to change horses, I heard some