re worked by one or two men
standing upright. Most sell fruits and odds and ends to those on
board, while others convey passengers to and from the land. The houses
about the harbour are largely forts or connected with the army and
navy. They rise tier upon tier to the top of the surrounding rocks
which may be about 150 feet high.

After lunch permission was given to the officers and N.C.O.'s to go
ashore. There was great excitement of course, and all asked for leave
forthwith. Being "Officer of the day," whose duties applied to the
whole ship, I decided not to remind the C.O.--Col. Hingston--of this,
but our C.O. mentioning at lunch that I need not look for leave I
could not sneak off as I had intended, and was to be permitted only if
I found a substitute, which, of course, I failed to do. Every one has
gone to stretch his legs on land except the "Captain of the day" and
myself. Still I hope to get a short turn ashore before we sail at 6
p.m. which is announced as the hour of our departure--and our
destination? we wish we knew.

8.30 p.m.--Fiddes very kindly returned early to relieve me and I
spent two very enjoyable hours in Valetta, wandering about its narrow
and stair-like streets. There were goats everywhere, many being milked
on the doorsteps as I passed. I bought some pieces of Maltese lace,
which is pretty much of one pattern, generally a Maltese cross
surrounded by flowers. The inhabitants are plainly of Italian descent,
but if you ask if that is their nationality, they always deny it and
say they are Maltese. The shops are totally different from anything I
have ever seen, and except in the best streets, have no windows,
merely a huge, gaping doorway. The weather was very close and many of
the inhabitants and the children generally, were bare legged and well
bronzed. The women's dress was very peculiar, all being in jet black
with a strange lopsided head-dress. The edge has a stiff hoop and
projects well in front of the face.

The plants were all tropical--palms, cacti of many sorts, and masses
of a deep purple flower that covered large expanses of wall. All trees
were in full leaf, but they would be mostly evergreen. Worthy looking
padres in their shovel hats were plentiful, also monks in dark brown
cloaks, rope girdles and sandal shoon, and usually bareheaded,
although a few wore a tiny cap, little bigger than the top of an egg,
which it resembled in shape.

I was much interested on discovering the reason