ld watch the old wall sliding down to plains of gold, where,
falling into ruins, it lent its degraded stones for the construction of
Turkish hovels.

A kitten with paralysed hind legs crawled up to us and accepted a little
rubbing. When dusk came we moved on, marvelling at the inexhaustible
picturesqueness of Salonika.

As we clambered down the breakneck paths, the priests were illuminating
the minarets with hundreds of twinkling lights.

The next day was the Feast. Mahommedans were everywhere. By the women's
trousers, which twinkled beneath the shrouding veils, one could see that
they were gorgeously dressed. Befezzed men were lounging and smoking in
all the cafe's.

In the evening once more we wandered up through the old Turkish quarter.
We heard a curious noise like a hymn played by bagpipes, rhythmically
accompanied in syncopation by a very flabby drum. Round the corner came
four jolly niggers blowing pipes, and the drummer behind them. Very slim
young men with bright sashes and light trousers were twisting,
posturing, and dancing joyfully. One of them threw to Jo the most
graceful kiss she had ever seen.

We left Salonika in the morning, having been wakened by new sounds.
Thousands of marching feet, songs. This was puzzling.

In the train a young Greek told us that his nation had mobilized against
the Bulgars, but that it was not very serious. He said that there had
been very friendly feeling in Greece for England, but that we had done
our best to kill it.

"You see, monsieur," he explained, "your offer to give away our land. It
is not yours to give. You say that does not matter, but that colonies,
great colonies in Africa will replace the small part of land that we may
surrender. Kavalla is more valuable to Grecian hearts than all Africa,
for how could we desert our Grecian brothers and place them beneath the
rule of the Turk or Bulgar?"

On the train were more American doctors. One had just arrived, and was
still full of enthusiasm for scenery and sanitation. Also there was
Princess ---- surrounded by packing cases. Some months earlier she had
visited our hospitals in Vrntze and she had asked if one of our V.A.D.'s
could be sent to her as housemaid. Seeing her in the station, Jo
involuntarily ran over in her mind, was she "sober, honest and
obliging?"

The American doctors and we picnicked together. We ate bully beef and a
huge water melon. The heat was awful. The velvet seats seemed to invade
one's b