e facade. This is the home of the
Franchetti family, who have done so much for modern Venice,
conspicuously, as we have seen, at the Ca d'Oro. Then the Rio dell'Orso
o Cavana, and the Palazzo Barbaro with its orange and red striped posts,
a beautiful room in which will be familiar to all visitors to the
Diploma Gallery at Burlington House, for it is the subject of one of Mr.
Sargent's most astounding feats of dexterity. It is now the Venetian
home of an American; and once no less a personage than Isabella d'Este
lived in it very shortly after America was discovered. The older of the
two Barbaro palaces is fourteenth century, the other, sixteenth. They
will have peculiar interest to anyone who has read _La Vie d'un
Patricien de Venise au XVI Siecle_, by Yriarte, for that fascinating
work deals with Marcantonio Barbaro, who married one of the Giustiniani
and lived here.

Nothing of importance--a palace with red and gold posts and an antiquity
store--before the next rio, the beautiful Rio del Santissimo o di
Stefano; nor after this, until the calle and traghetto: merely two
neglected houses, one with a fondamenta. And then a pension arises, next
to which is one of the most coveted abodes in the whole canal--the
little alluring house and garden that belong to Prince Hohenlohe. The
majestic palace now before us is one of Sansovino's buildings, the
Palazzo Corner della Ca Grande, now the prefecture of Venice. Opposite
it is the beautiful Dario palace and the Venier garden. Next is the Rio
S. Maurizio and then two dingy Barbarigo palaces, with shabby brown
posts, once the home of a family very famous in Venetian annals. Marco
Barbarigo was the first Doge to be crowned at the head of the Giants'
Stairs; it was while his brother Agostino was Doge (1486-1501) that
Venice acquired Cyprus, and its queen, Caterina Corner, visited this
city to abdicate her throne. Cardinal Barbarigo, famous not only for his
piety but for refusing to become Pope, was born in this house.

Then the Rio S. Maria Zobenigo o dei Furlani and a palace, opposite the
steamboat station. Another palace, and then a busy traghetto, with vine
leaves over its shelter, and looking up the campo we see the church of
S. Maria del Giglio with all its holy statues. Ruskin (who later moved
to the Zattre) did most of his work on _The Stones of Venice_ in the
house which is now the Palazzo Swift, an annexe of the Grand Hotel, a
little way up this campo. Here he lived happil