he trip, and was
inclined to rate the luxuries of the semi-barbarous prau as surpassing
those of the most magnificent screw-steamer, that highest result of our
civilisation.

CHAPTER XXX. THE ARU ISLANDS--RESIDENCE IN DOBBO

(JANUARY TO MARCH 1857.)

On the 8th of January, 1857, I landed at Dobbo, the trading settlement
of the Bugis and Chinese, who annually visit the Aru Islands. It
is situated on the small island of Wamma, upon a spit of sand which
projects out to the north, and is just wide enough to contain three rows
of houses. Though at first sight a most strange and desolate-looking
place to build a village on, it has many advantages. There is a clear
entrance from the west among the coral reefs that border the land, and
there is good anchorage for vessels, on one side of the village or the
other, in both the east and west monsoons. Being fully exposed to the
sea-breezes in three directions it is healthy, and the soft sandy heath
offers great facilities for hauling up the praus, in order to secure
them from sea-worms and prepare them for the homeward voyage. At its
southern extremity the sand-bank merges in the beach of the island,
and is backed by a luxuriant growth of lofty forest. The houses are of
various sizes, but are all built after one pattern, being merely large
thatched sheds, a small portion of which, next the entrance, is used as
a dwelling, while the rest is parted oft; and often divided by one or
two floors, in order better to stow away merchandise and native produce.

As we had arrived early in the season, most of the houses were
empty, and the place looked desolate in the extreme--the whole of
the inhabitants who received us on our landing amounting to about
half-a-dozen Bugis and Chinese. Our captain, Herr Warzbergen, had
promised to obtain a house for me, but unforeseen difficulties presented
themselves. One which was to let had no roof; and the owner, who was
building it on speculation, could not promise to finish it in less
than a month. Another, of which the owner was dead, and which I might
therefore take undisputed possession of as the first comer, wanted
considerable repairs, and no one could be found to do the work,
although about four times its value was offered. The captain, therefore,
recommended me to take possession of a pretty good house near his own,
whose owner was not expected for some weeks; and as I was anxious to be
on shore, I immediately had it cleared out, and by ev