the sea, offered, with its rich
verdure, a striking contrast to the pale yellow sands beneath. In front,
the sea, blue, calm, waveless, and studded in the distance with a few
white sails, glittering in the sun, ran in a straight line along the
yellow plain, which was, moreover, intersected in various directions by
numerous small rivers, whose shining waters looked like molten silver.
To add to the effect of the landscape, silence the most absolute brooded
over it, except when the scream of a seamew, wheeling about drowsily in
the sunny air, broke upon the ear. The mount itself, with its ancient
monastic towers, rearing their grey pinnacles towards heaven, in the
midst of stillness and solitude, appeared to be formed by nature to be
the abode of peace, and a soft and religious melancholy.

For some time I rode on musing, gazing delightedly at the scene, and
recalling to mind the historical events which had taken place on those
shores, and rendered them famous. The cannon of England had thundered on
every side, and her banners had waved triumphantly from the towers
before me. My reflections, however, were soon called off from these
towering topics, being interrupted by the loud laugh of a party of
soldiers and wagoners, who were regaling themselves with fresh air at
the gate of the fortress.

Dismounting here, I entered the small town which clusters round the foot
of the mount within the wall; and whatever romance might have taken
lodging in my imagination, was quickly put to flight by the stink, and
filth, and misery, which forced themselves upon my attention. I never
beheld a more odious den. Leaving my horse and guide at a cabaret, I
ascended the only street in the place, which winding about the foot of
the mountain, leads directly to the castle. Toiling up this abominable
street, and several long and very steep flights of steps, I at length
reached the door, where, having rung, and waited for some time, I was
admitted by a saucy gendarme, who demanded my business and my passport
in the most insolent tone imaginable. I delivered up my passport; and
while the rascal went to show it to the man in office--governor,
sub-governor, or some creature of that sort--had to stand in the dismal
passage, among a score or two of soldiers. In general, however, French
soldiers are remarkably polite, and these, with the exception of the
above individual, were so also. Even he, when he returned, had changed
his tone; for, having learne