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ess you prefer palms and an orchestra." "I do," said Cassy, to whom a room with this man said only boredom and who liked to see what was going on. Then when, presently, they were seated at a table, to which the chastened captain of the ham-and-egg night had piloted the way, Cassy beheld what she had never beheld before, and what few mortals ever do behold, a cradled bottle of Clos de Vougeot. But to her, the royal cru was very much like the private room. It said nothing. A neighbouring table was more eloquent. Among the people seated there was an imperial woman with an imperial manner, whom Cassy instantly recognised. She was prima donna, prima donna assoluta, and though Cassy did not know it--nor would it have interested her if she had known--dissoluta also. To be in her shoes! In that seven-leagued dream, she forgot Paliser, the delinquent Tamburini, the trick that Lennox had played. In a golden gloom, on a wide stage, to a house packed to the roof, Cassy was bowing. Her final roulade had just floated on and beyond, lost now in cyclonic bravas. "It was the Duc d'Aumale," Paliser was saying. "Eh?" Abruptly Cassy awoke. "Or, if not, some other chap who, recognising it, ordered his regiment to halt and present arms." "To whom?" "To the vineyard where the grape in that bottle was grown." Cassy shook out a napkin. "You talk just like my janitress. I never understand a word she says." But now a waiter was bringing delicacies other than those obtainable in Harlem; in particular, a dish that had the merit of pleasing Cassy. "What is it?" she asked. "Muskrat." "What!" "Muskrat with terrapin for a pseudonym. The pseudonym shows imagination. Let us be thankful for that. Gastronomy is bankrupt. Formerly it was worshipped. Formerly gastronomy was a goddess. To-day the sole tributes consist in bills-of-fare that are just like the Sahara minus the oases. It is the oases we want and it is muskrat we get. That is all wrong. The degree of culture that any nation may claim is shown in its cookery and if there is anything viler than what we get here it must be served in Berlin. It must have been Solon who said: 'Tell me what you eat and I will tell you who you are.' He added, or should have, that animals feed, man dines and, when permitted, dines devoutly. There are dishes, as there are wines, to which one should rise and bow. But hereabouts it is only by special dispensation that one gets them. In a
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