ve as a beading around the hull. Section of vessel Plate V.
shows this at BD.

Plate III. shows deck finished, planking, top of cabin, bitts, etc. Mark
the planking with an awl and straight-edge--not too deep, however, or
you will split your deck. The double lines in the opening of the deck,
Plate II., represent a coping to fit the cabin on, and at the same time
to strengthen it. Make it of pine one-sixteenth of an inch thick, and
fasten with good-sized pins having points clipped off diagonally by
nippers or scissors: a better nail you will not want; use these wherever
it is necessary.

The motive power consists of a single oscillating cylinder, half-inch
bore, one-inch stroke; copper boiler, with lamp, shaft, and propeller;
which will cost you ten dollars. A double oscillating engine costs
fifteen dollars. The engine is controlled from the top of the cabin. The
lever, if pressed to the right, will start the engine ahead; if left
vertical, will stop, and to the left, will reverse it. What more can you
want than that? The lamp holds just so much alcohol, and when that is
burned out, the water in the boiler is used too. Never refill the lamp
without doing the same to the boiler. The boiler is to be filled through
the safety-valve, and provided with three steam-taps; these will show
the height of water in the boiler. The coupling or connection between
the shaft and engine is made so that you may take engine and boiler out,
and use them for anything else.

There are three things we've forgotten, the stem, stern-post, and keel.
Use the pattern you made for your bow, and cut out one-eighth inch stuff
for your cut-water, or stem; the dotted lines at BK, Plate I., will show
the shape; fasten on with cut pins. The stern-post, with the exception
of the swell for the shaft, should be about the same thickness, and
fitted in as shown in Plate I. The keel should be of lead, tapering from
half an inch in the centre to one-eighth at the bow and stern: cut a
small hole at Z, and let the rudder-post rest in it. Now fasten in your
engine; two screws through the bed-plate will do it. Try the boat in
water; if she is down by the stern, tack a piece of sheet lead in the
bow inside. Nail your deck in with cut pins. Use one-eighth inch strips
one-half inch high for the gunwale as far as the rounding of the stern;
this must be cut out of a solid piece. Finish the gunwale with a top
piece of Spanish cedar lapping over on either side of it.